It is almost midnight; we are waiting for email to download as midnight means great reception on the ham radio. We are floating on a pond that is over 700 miles long and averages 100 miles or a bit more in width. The moon is shinning and the shimmer on the water is exactly as you would expect if somebody was singing the old classic song “by the light of the silvery moon”. Dramatic, yes, real yes, romantic, yes but Lisa is asleep, the dog is resting on his Tommy Bahama chair and Bill is listening to “Wait, Wait don’t Tell me” on NPR radio.
It is not hard to believe that on a night like this native Indians, Inuit’s, or Incas could have wanted to paddle their Chalupas or canoes across the sea to the new coast of Mexico. It is also not hard to believe that the bus drivers of the time, call them Seamen if you like would worry about Sea Monsters. The noises on the “Silvery Sea” are really out of control. Many we can identify: Mantas are playing with the bait fish. Periodically they will jump and with a distinctive “plunk” you know they have belly flopped on the water. The bait fish erupt into a sound that simulates popcorn on steroids, or somebody who is really nervous popping those air bubble packaging things. The other noises just kind of work themselves into the background. You will hear grunting, heavy breathing, bubbles, the sound of waves hitting shallow undercuts on the coast line. Occasionally the sound of something very large hitting the water will break the silence of the night with a sound close to far off thunder. Assuming you thought the world was flat, it is not hard to project that all these sounds were “other worldly” or at least evil. If you pick up a pint of beer and a Tommy Bahama lounge chair it really can be fun if you get past the 8 inch moths that are flittering about in the waning light of that “slivery moon”.
100 years ago this must have been a very magical and scary place. Today it is just magical. Occasionally you might find a night like this in an American National Park, but we find these occasions fairly regular in Baja. It is really like no other place we have been to in the world. We haven’t traveled the complete world yet, but from Turkey to Japan, Germany to Korea and most of the countries in between we have to say that Baja is incredible. The weather changes here more than any place we know. Two days ago you would not want to be on the ocean. Today you could paddle your pool toys across the entire sea. We absolutely love it.
Bill gets so emotional about the places that we have seen that lately he is one of the Baja’s biggest promoters. We were sure we would keep some places secret, but when you really like some place as much as we do it is hard to keep your mouth shut. Having just been to Santa Rosalia and being so close to the town of San Marcos we have tried hard to get all our friends to visit this unique town. We did not visit it this time around but have written about how we enjoyed our visits in a number of previous logs. As we get nearer to our temporary home base of Carmen Island we will no doubt start talking about our favorite anchorages in that area as well.
As you can tell we are having a good time night and day. The fishing is good (Lisa caught a Dorado today), the diving is excellent although it has been a number of days since we have put fins on and the weather has been cool by summer Baja standard with the last couple of night dipping into the low 80’s, heck even the water temps have dropped to a chilly 81 degrees in the last day or two.
Our next stops will be Punta Chivato and then on to San Juanico were we hope to stop for a week or so to check out the “natural food store” in that neighborhood and to allow Lisa
to fill up on her supply of kayaking around the estuary. Should be a good time.